Medway Dragons Master, muse and inspiration to us all, Graham McManus acheived a lifetime ambition through Masters Rugby League when he toured Australia with The Baht'Ats (from tyhe song 'On Ilkley Moor Baht'At - Editor)

Composing a tour on this scale is not easy. A number of people have to work together and display great organizational and people management skills to make such a vision a reality. Nevertheless, a committee of Baht`At members were able to accomplish this with enthusiasm, patience and empathy for all of those involved. So it was, after almost 2 years in the making, everyone assembled at 6 am on the morning of Wednesday 24 September at Manchester Airport.

It had been a cold wet night but the damp atmosphere around Manchester could not deter the warmth of the welcomes as people gathered, many of them meeting for the first time, but immediately sharing a bond of attachment that was a feature of the tour throughout. John Wroe was like a shepherd gathering his flock together and issuing instructions to us all. Paul Royston and Peter Longbottom were busy giving out goody bags and checking / packing kit items as people arrived and introductions were completed.

“ What a short flight “ some people hailed as they woke up during the landing – only to realize we were in Munich not Singapore ! Following a short wait in the departure area we were back onboard and the race was on – to see who could get to double figures first in the refreshments tally ! Singapore slings , Tiger beers and Jim Beam requests seemed to be the most popular so it wasn`t long until many were asleep as we headed east at 550mph and 38,000 feet.

The transfer at Singapore was quite uneventful as people took advantage of the free massage chairs and soon sobered up when they realized it was $4 for a small can of beer! Onwards to Australia and another 8 hours to endure. However, it was not that bad after all, it was not long before the word was out that the party was at the back of the plane , next to the kitchen. Two mishaps caused a slight delay at Brisbane.

The first was a confusion over Anne Field`s wheelchair assistant thinking Anne needed a Punjabi translator and the other caused by Singapore Airlines unable to find Emilia`s baby seat in baggage reclaim. However, our seven foot coach driver got us safely to the Meriton Apartments and the day drew almost to a close with the great news that Paul Ogden was now on his way from Manchester after a slight delay and John Conell was not long from landing, having left the UK via Heathrow.

I say almost finished because for a small group it was time to sample a quick few beers – so quick it went on until 4 am and involved emptying a bottle of Bundaberg rum in Paul Field`s room.
Day 2.

Further good news greeted those that gathered at the Bella Donna bar for brunch- the baby seat had been found and delivered, but John Wroe ( now former lover of rum ) was nowhere to be seen ! Ordering breakfast was a learning event for many, 16 ways to cook an egg, 10 ways to have a coffee and so many varieties of tea! Agreeing to meet at 6pm we all the went our separate ways- shopping, relaxing by the pool or sight seeing the local area.

Meeting at 6pm as agreed we then waited 45 minutes for John Wroe, we eventually called the room he was sharing to find Paul Field ill in bed , barely able to speak and to learn John had gone early to the club.. Now let me explain that going to an Australian Rugby Club is nothing like those back in the Uk and for most , the first visit was a jaw dropping experience. The entrance area alone is bigger than most hotel receptions. Beyond this it opened out into a number of zones all packed with activity.

To the left was the casino and gambling room reminiscent of something more akin to Las Vegas, packed with slot machines and flashing lights. On the right was a dining area with people playing Bingo and holding fistfuls of tickets for the constantly rolling raffle , conducted loudly over a microphone - all going on at the same time as the bingo. Then in front was another two parts. The first was a long bar with people queuing at least 3 deep and then a restaurant section with such an extensive menu it took 20 minutes to read. You then also had about 12 screens showing a variety of events from horse and buggy racing to rugby and Aussie rules football.

Our senses were almost overwhelmed as we started to learn how Australians enjoy themselves on a typical night out. I almost forget to mention that upstairs to all this was a massive function hall with another 4 bars and other relaxation areas. So it was that we enjoyed our first night out at The Southport RSL Club. Some left early to greet Paul Ogden arriving from the airport and others stayed to watch the Rabitohs Roosters semifinal or have a few drinks.

Day 3 – Match Day 1 and Opening Ceremony.
By just after 9am 52 teams were assembled ready to march into the main pitch arena at Owen Park, Queen Street Southport, and what a colourful scene it was with flags and banners heading up each team. We received a fantastic welcome on entering the stadium, introduced to the crowd as the Pommie Convicts ! Our rendition of the National Anthem was totally out of tune but nevertheless sung with pride and passion. The Cook Island cohort then performed some South Sea traditional dancing and the opening proceedings were closed with a full blown Hakka , performed by members from all the New Zealand teams.

As we left the ground at the end of the day , a sticker in the back of a car purveyed a sentiment we were all able to warm to
“ Masters Rugby League – a game were old stars still shine, a game for life for 35 years and over “

For most, the day finished in what became a familiar place, The Anglers Arms. It soon became clear why it was called this – we were the fish and owner was the fisherman, tempting us all with crisps and snacks as bait, and then hooking us all on the beer!. Anyway, we sang songs late into the night with a group of very talented North Island folk who all played guitar and sang beautifully.

It was then that Paul Ogden proved he knew all of the words to every Beatle`s song. Oh, did I forget to mention the rugby ? Played out in a thunderstorm at the end of a long hot day we had a not so favourable draw. It was clear in the first half we had not played together before and lacked any structure or game plan. Ian Morgan and Ken Kerr ( both now expats ) had helped boost squad numbers. Played out on an enormous pitch against a very quick moving, mostly black shorted Narrabeen Sharks we were able to rally in the second half and tighten up our defensive line in the midst of a hailstorm. George Hunton received man of the match, with Ian Ogden running a close second with his outstanding tackling.

Day 4 – Relaxation day -Sunday 28 September.
The talking point at breakfast was the pictures posted on facebook of a shopping trolley. How Paul Royston and his room mates had managed to get it to the 8th floor full of beer is still a mystery. At the end of a day at leisure we all gathered at the RSL club to attend a reception held just for us. It gave an opportunity to meet up with people who had travelled and played in the UK over the last few years. The gathering soon looked like a family party with people renewing old friendships and making fresh ones. Shirts were swapped and details of how life had moved on were also exchanged.

CEO Malcolm Duncan addressed us all about the progress and current areas of development and proposed a toast to the Baht`Ats. Compliments were then returned with free drinks at the bar for all of our hosts( not something you hear very often from a bunch of mostly Yorkshiremen ) . We also heard an amazing story from one of the Australians about how they had managed to help Peter Longbottom avoid a driving ban during one of his previous visits to Sydney – unbelievable! By the end of the evening plans and hopes were in place for a proposed 2016 visit.

Day 5 – Game day 2 – Monday 29 September
In total contrast to our first game, this one was played out in glorious 30C sunshine in the middle of the day against a confident looking Shirley Hawks side from New Zealand. The conditions were clearly more suitable, with first half tries by Graham McManus and Ian Morgan giving confidence to the rest of the team to play the attacking rugby we all knew was possible. John Conell and Paul Filed had produced the opening assists and it was then Ian Ogden who set up a number of plays that brought second half tries for Paul Ogden ( 40m – after his first half try on the 20m line ! ) and Dave Gavaghan ( 60m ) . Man of the match Paul Ogden`s try is now legendary for the pirouette , twist and final few meters of crawl. Dave Gavaghan also provided the well timed pass that put in Paul Royston who went in from 40m unchallenged. A much more organized performance in attack was matched with some great defensive work, notably from John Wroe, Peter Longbottom and Martin Flynn.

Everyone was in a jubilant mood until Peter Longbottom ( following his ice bucket challenge ) stepped in as judge for a real Kangaroo Court. Very few people managed to escape his harsh sentences and any hint of appeal was immediately slapped down with a heavier fine! The large audience that had gathered were very appreciative of both the entertainment and generosity shown. For most it was then back to the apartments for a soothing of limbs in the pool or Jacuzzi, ahead of the evening entertainment.

It was a fancy dress night at the RSL club which saw a mob of cavemen and women ( or was it flintstones ) turn up alongside a tiger, Father Christmas and a gathering of Hawaiian shirted tourists. Ian Morgan clearly enjoyed spending the evening in his wife`s dress and hat, and Paul Royston terrified us all in his ghoul costume. It was a fantastic night that gave everyone the chance to mix with the people from all the teams as we danced until the early hours. Even then it was still necessary for some to go and do some further “fishing” until a much later hour, at you know where.

Day 6 – Rest day –
A most welcome day of leisure and relaxation gave everyone another opportunity to enjoy the holiday stay through visits and sight seeing . The beaches at surfers paradise proved very popular along with a trip up to the viewing platform of Q1 the highest building along the Gold Coast. The wildlife centre at Currumbin gave many a flavour of true Australia and the Sea World attraction gave a chance to see sharks in the right place !

Day 7 – Game Day 3 – Wednesday 1 October.
The hottest day of the week ( 32 C ) saw Baht`Ats boys run out against the Sydney Blues, a police team full of black shorts !.The UK lads never fully recovered from 3 quick first half tries scored by a team full of running with some skillful and well timed passing. Excellent defensive work in the second half by Tony Sheard, Paul Sutcliffe and Doug Parkin meant the final outcome was more respectable, but many left the field disappointed in our inability to retain possession and build attacks through better completion rates. With signs of a developing thunderstorm it was a swift return to the apartments and then out to the RSL club to lick our wounds.

A packed function room of nearly a thousand people nervously awaited the naming of the teams to play the representative games on Friday. Teams were selected from Australian and New Zealand clubs in each of the short colour categories. It was clear from the cheers . applause and spontaneous Hakkas that it meant a great deal to those players and their clubs.

We, as a UK representatives , were asked to file onto the stage ahead of the announcement of a combined New Zealand and Australian team to play against us. We received a standing ovation as the audience displayed warm appreciation for our presence in the tournament. Tension was building for the finals day in 2 days time. Once again, it was a late night fishing trip to the Anglers Arms that saw many of the tourers sharing a beer with Masters from across the southern hemisphere. The next day no one said, or probably remembered what time it ended.

Day 8 – Rest Day.
Another day was spent with families and groups doing their own thing as the end of the week approached. Some travelled as far afield as Brisbane to secure those shopping items they had planned to take home. Others relaxed by the pool, went on tram rides or visited local attractions. It was the evening get together that was the highlight of the day. Outback Jacks Steak House provided the setting for all tour members to gather and share company with each other over a meal.

Some rather overcooked steaks went down a treat with some wine, beer and conversations about everything from the tour to the meaning of life! We were still sober enough to do some sums and reveal the average playing age was 58 and a pack total of 396 years was only 6 short of the 18 year record of 402 ! Dave Gavaghan proposed a toast to all and roused us all to make our final game our best performance. Martin Flynn then responded with specific mention of appreciation to Peter Longbottom, John Wroe, Dave Gavaghan and Paul Royston for the work they had done it making it such a quality tour. Anyway, a great night enjoyed by all and of course finished off by some with the usual fishing session!

Day 9 – Friday 3rd October , Finals Day.
A more temperate 25 C was perfect for a day of exhibition rugby in front of 2 packed stands. Gold shorts teams started the international proceedings showing great skill and incredible pace for such ageing limbs. Next up were the red shorts and it was soon clear that the physicality of the games was going to increase during the day. The Baht`At lads were up next and although the national anthem was sung with real energy, we were behind by a try within the first few minutes. However, all was not lost as we rallied and put together our best plays of the tournament.

First half attacking threats from Graham McManus and John Connell put the combined international team on the back foot and meant we had the upper hand in terms of possession at the turn around. A superb cover tackle by Steve Donkersley early in the second half squashed the only attacking play from the Anzacs as it was domination in terms of possession from the UK team. The southern hemisphere team were pinned in their own half throughout this period by an improved completion tally and intelligent movement of the ball by the Baht`Ats. Eventually, a well timed pass by Ken Kerr put Martin Flynn through to seal a well earned draw.

A fine game had put everyone in a jubilant mood as the celebrations began. The final two games of white and black shorts were played out almost like full internationals watched from the clubhouse veranda by an increasingly noisy bunch of Baht`Ats and their supporters. Our dancing and singing along with a group of New Zealand and Cook Island players provided entertainment for all. The soulful tunes of the Kiwis combined with the humour of the Pommie Convicts provided some of the most enjoyable moments of the tour. Steve Donkersley made clear to all why his nickname is The Chimp, with his dancing and monkey impersonations. Shirt swapping and singing went on until the setting sun reminded us all it was time to head back to the apartments and prepare for the presentation evening.

All 52 teams were present in a crammed function room to witness recognition for the weeks rugby exploits. Martin Flynn received Baht`Ats player of the week and Ian Ogden the golden boot for the representative game. All Baht`At members went up on stage to receive medals and warm appreciation from those gathered. Farewells were said, shirts swapped and contact details exchanged as the tournament drew to a close and the next phase of the tour began.

Day 10 Saturday 4th October – Flight Day.
By 10.30 am we were on the coach and saying goodbye to Southport as we headed for Brisbane airport. Sad to leave but excited about our flight to Sydney which went ahead more smoothly than a commute from Rochester to London. Quickly through baggage claim we were on the transfer bus and soon arriving at The Novotel Manly Pacific. Wow, what a place, literally on the most beautiful beach with surfers as close as the usual TV screen. With an afternoon and evening to enjoy , some took the ferry to watch the sunset at the harbour bridge, others joined in the jazz festival that was on in Manly and some sampled the menus in the many fish restaurants in the area.

Day 11 NRL Grand Final Day – Sunday 5th October.
For many it was a first glimpse of Sydney Harbour Bridge and The Opera House as we took the ferry from Manly to circular keys. With temperatures forecast to be 31C , dropping to 14C ( with a cold wind ) in the evening, everyone had bags packed and fleeces ready for a long day ahead. Circular keys was like a bustling town in itself with thousands of people travelling on the ferries that were constantly arriving and leaving. Some went on short cruises to see the harbour whilst others visited the old town. Some thought they had found heaven – there was a chocolate festival on next to Wharf 3 ! Anyway, after a light lunch and a few beers we rendezvoused with John Wroe who had already visited the stadium with an advanced group to collect tickets. A wonderful ferry ride up the Parramatta river gave us all a chance to see what luxury living in Sydney was really like, with some stunning riverside homes to see from the boat. The blazing sun and fantastic breeze was enjoyed by all, the only mishap was Ian Ogden losing his Rabitohs hat in the river !

Even with 4 hours still to go ahead of the kick off, the ANZ Olympic Park Stadium was busy with tens of thousands of people. The Official NRL Merchandise store put a dent in most of our wallets , but it was an opportunity not to be missed to collect some memorabilia to return home with. And what an experience the final was. With a central viewing position, we were able to follow the game closely and taste the full atmosphere of the event in its entirety .

With two Englishmen as poster boys for the game we were able to appreciate the drama of the event to the full. The late journey back to the hotel was conducted in a very quiet and sombre mood. I can not decide whether this was because most realized it marked the end of our stay or because with such a slow coach on a circuitous route, our arrival time would mean the bars were closed ! However, it was a day to be forever remembered and one more tick on the bucket list.

Day 12 ( plus a few hours somewhere ) – Journey Home.
The late arrival of the transfer coach allowed us all to soak up the sun and have a last few beers outside the hotel bar. By now we were all seasoned travelers and were swiftly though check in customs and security and counting how many dollars we had left to spend ahead of our flight. With everyone feeling reflective about the holiday and expectant over what awaited us in the UK , it was time for a drink and a long sleep with 8 hours ahead of us. Singapore again was only a short transfer and after 2 more rice breakfasts and 12 hours in the air we were back at Munich. By this time everyone was awake and as the cabin service crew cleaned up the debris from departing Germans , security arrived to check the plane.

As the Gestapo like officers did a full check of hand luggage items and did a head count they soon looked bewildered at some of our early morning antics. Peter Longbottom was giving assistance , still with his green ( three-eyed ) sleeping mask on his head ! Within a further 2 hours we had left a foggy Munich to arrive at a very cold and wet Manchester, yes we were finally home. The pressing need to get through customs and baggage reclaim meant the farewells were probably not as complete as we all would have preferred but nevertheless, hugs, kisses and goodbyes were fitted in as we went our separate ways.

Epilogue.
Much of what I have written is simply a narrative of events and happenings of a foreign tour. What I find hard to convey are those emotions and feelings you experience as you grow closer within the group . The trip has helped build friendships that will now last a lifetime. The common love of Rugby League has allowed us all to forge bonds with people from clubs across the country that permits the rugby league community to extend further and become stronger. For many of us this wonderful game has become part of the fabric of our own personalities as well as an unfailing companion in our journeys through life. Many of the group, players and non-players, have stories to tell about how the game has shaped and influenced the way they live and the values they hold. It is therefore not surprising that some of these tales are very similar. As said in the accompanying e-mail I hope I have not broken any confidences or misrepresented events in a way that upsets anyone. Please add to this record and use it as you wish.

The Australia Tour 2014 has been a most wonderful experience for all of those involved. Always at the risk of forgetting someone or something I feel I need a few mentions of thanks to …
John Wroe for his guidance and expert planning. Paul Royston , Peter Longbottom and Martin Flynn for logistics work with shirts , kit and all other rugby paraphernalia. Dave Gavaghan for inspirational captaincy. Paul Sutcliffe, and Tony Sheard and for their dry humour and banter. Emily, Josh and Angela Longbottom for their match day support and help with the tour. Annie Ogden for her shouts from the touch line and attempts at keeping her son in order. Ian Ogden for his commitment to the rugby. Amy Moody and Emelia Longbottom for making a tour including 3 generations possible. Catherine Flynn for reminding us all and demonstrating necessary in flight exercises. Paul and Anne Field for sharing their previous tour experiences to guide us along. Kristian Constantinou for his youthful wit and match day assistance. Samantha Ogden for the variety of hairstyles she crafted herself and excellent action photos. Ken Kerr and Ian Morgan for giving up some of their holiday time in Australia to join us. John Connell for finding another route to join us at short notice. George Hunton for his free lessons in how to speak Cumbrian. Doug Parkin for reminding us all that you are not a true Yorkshireman unless you have a good moan. Paul Ogden for his encouragement to get us doing the English Hakka. Steve Donkersley for his dance moves and great humour.

And finally my wife Gina who supported me and gently nudged me into realizing a lifelong ambition.
Once again, many thanks and God bless you all !

If you made it this far, you may be interested in Masters Rugby League

Contact eddiebaldwin@aol.com